Stage 19 | Gap → Alpe d’Huez

Stage 19 | Gap → Alpe d’Huez

Oreilles d’âne, 21 bends and Beefeater Bend at last

We’re still blaming Tom Pidcock.

Yesterday belonged to Richard Carapaz.

He attacked on the final climb to Orcières-Merlette and rode away to claim a fine solo victory, with Mauro Schmid and Matteo Jorgenson following 45 seconds later.

Pogačar remains in yellow.

Pidcock remains eighth overall.

And today, the race arrives somewhere that needs very little introduction.

Alpe d’Huez.

Today’s Ride

Stage 19 runs for 127.9km from Gap to Alpe d’Huez, with 3,500 metres of climbing.

The road crosses Col Bayard, Col du Noyer and Col d’Ornon before arriving at the foot of the final climb.

Then come the 21 bends.

Each one numbered.

Each one crowded.

Each one carrying its own stories from decades of Tour history.

This is the first of two consecutive finishes at Alpe d’Huez.

Today follows the traditional road.

Tomorrow finds an even harder way back.

But before any of that, we are looking forward to seeing our friends at Beefeater Bend.

@tdfbeefeaters

British determination, questionable clothing and a proper place in the theatre of the mountain.

Exactly as it should be.

Today’s Kitchen

The route begins in Gap and climbs through the Champsaur on its way towards Alpe d’Huez.

So today’s kitchen stays with one of the region’s more unusually named traditions:

Oreilles d’âne.

No donkeys are involved.

The name comes from the young wild spinach leaves once used in the dish, whose shape was said to resemble a donkey’s ear.

Today, it is generally made as a substantial gratin of spinach or chard, pasta, cream, béchamel and grated mountain cheese.

It is not delicate.

It is not particularly photogenic before it reaches the oven.

And it makes no attempt to behave like fashionable food.

Which is part of its charm.

Stage 19 Recipe | Oreilles d’Âne

Ingredients

Serves 4.

• 800g fresh spinach or chard
• 1 onion
• 9–10 lasagne sheets
• 200ml crème fraîche
• 75g grated Gruyère or mountain cheese
• Butter
• Salt, pepper and nutmeg

For the béchamel

• 30g butter
• 30g plain flour
• 500ml whole milk
• Salt, pepper and nutmeg

Method

Wilt the spinach, drain it thoroughly and chop it roughly.

Cook the onion slowly in butter until soft. Add the spinach, crème fraîche and seasoning.

Make a light béchamel from the butter, flour and whole milk.

Layer lasagne sheets, spinach, béchamel and grated cheese in a buttered baking dish.

Finish with pasta, béchamel and cheese.

Cover and bake for 30 minutes, then uncover and cook for another 15 minutes until bubbling and golden.

Allow it to rest before serving.

Simple ingredients.

Careful preparation.

Strong enough for the mountains.

Why This Dish?

Sometimes we take inspiration from brilliant cooks such as @jhbfoodiecyclist.

Sometimes we simply let the road decide.

Today, the road leaves Gap, crosses the Champsaur and climbs towards one of cycling’s most recognisable finishes.

Oreilles d’âne belong to the same mountain country through which the first half of the stage travels.

Yesterday we cooked the valley’s tourtons.

Today we move to a completely different kind of local dish: greens, pasta, cream and mountain cheese, arranged in patient layers.

The ingredients are modest.

The result is not.

At Beefeater Bend

There are thousands of people on Alpe d’Huez.

But some groups become part of the mountain’s identity.

Today we’ll be looking for our friends at Beefeater Bend as the riders take on the 21 hairpins.

@tdfbeefeaters

The race may be French.

The bend most certainly has a British accent.

We hope the riders appreciate the encouragement.

Whether they understand any of it is another matter.

In the Workshop

A climb like Alpe d’Huez exposes everything.

Preparation.

Materials.

Fit.

Endurance.

And every small decision made before the road started rising.

Good handmade products work on much the same principle.

The details are decided long before anyone notices them.

The leather is selected.

The pieces are cut.

The holes are stamped.

The stitching is completed.

The edges are finished.

Only then is the finished article ready for the road.

For the duration of Le Tour, we are continuing to offer complimentary yellow hand stitching on our handmade-to-order belts and leather apron straps.

Tomorrow, they do it all again.

Another stage.

Another route to Alpe d’Huez.

Another recipe.

Food from the road.
Handmade in England.
Inspired by Le Tour.