Stage 17 | Chambéry → Voiron | Gratin Dauphiois

Gratin Dauphinois, an open road and no room for shortcuts

We’re still blaming Tom Pidcock.

Yesterday belonged to Remco Evenepoel, who won the individual time trial and took 28 seconds from Tadej Pogačar. Pidcock produced one of the finest time trials of his career and moved up to eighth overall.

Not bad for the reason we started this final-week journal two weeks late.

Today, the Tour leaves Chambéry and heads for Voiron.

Officially, this is a flat stage.

In reality, it contains 174.7 kilometres, 2,200 metres of climbing and four categorised climbs before the race has covered 60 kilometres.

Flat, apparently.

Today’s Ride

The stage begins in Savoie and immediately starts asking questions.

The Côte de Bassa.

The Côte de Rossillon.

The Col des Près.

The Côte de Saint-Jean d’Arvey.

All four arrive during the opening section of the race, before the route settles into its long run through Isère towards Voiron.

It is the sort of profile that could encourage a breakaway, punish anyone expecting an easy day and still leave the faster riders believing they can bring everything back together before the finish.

A day of patience early.

Speed late.

And concentration throughout.

Today’s Kitchen

Today the road carries us into Dauphiné.

So there could only be one dish:

Gratin Dauphinois.

Thinly sliced potatoes.

Milk.

Cream.

Garlic.

Butter.

Nutmeg.

And absolutely no cheese.

Grenoble’s official tourism guide describes gratin dauphinois as a classic of local gastronomy, traditionally made from potatoes, cream, milk and garlic.

It looks simple.

That is precisely the point.

When there are only a handful of ingredients, every decision matters.

Slice the potatoes unevenly and they cook unevenly.

Use the wrong potatoes and the texture disappears.

Rush the oven and the cream separates before the potatoes soften.

There is nowhere to hide.

Stage 17 Recipe | Gratin Dauphinois

Ingredients

Serves 4–6.

• 1kg floury potatoes
• 600ml whole milk
• 250ml double cream
• 2 garlic cloves
• 40g butter
• Nutmeg
• Salt and black pepper

Method

Heat the oven to 170°C conventional or 150°C fan.

Rub a shallow ovenproof dish with a cut garlic clove, then butter it thoroughly.

Peel the potatoes and slice them about 2–3mm thick. Do not rinse them after slicing.

Warm the milk, cream, remaining garlic, nutmeg and seasoning in a wide pan. Add the potatoes and simmer gently for 8–10 minutes.

Transfer everything to the dish, arrange the potatoes evenly and dot the surface with butter.

Bake for 60–75 minutes, until the potatoes are completely tender and the surface is properly golden.

Rest for 15 minutes before serving.

No cheese.

No unnecessary additions.

Just potatoes, cream, garlic, time and attention.

Why This Dish?

Sometimes we take inspiration from brilliant cooks such as @jhbfoodiecyclist.

Sometimes we simply let the road decide.

Today’s stage finishes in Voiron, in Isère and the historic region of Dauphiné.

The answer was already in the name.

This is food that has survived because it does not need improving.

Only cooking properly.

In the Workshop

The simplest things are often the hardest to make well.

A belt does not need twenty decorative features.

An apron does not need to pretend to be something it is not.

It needs proper material.

Accurate cutting.

Strong stitching.

Good hardware.

And enough time spent on the details.

A gratin dauphinois works in much the same way.

Nothing unnecessary.

Nothing added to distract from poor workmanship.

For the duration of Le Tour, we are continuing to offer complimentary yellow hand stitching on our handmade-to-order belts and leather apron straps.

Another stage.

Another region.

Another recipe.

Food from the road.
Handmade in England.
Inspired by Le Tour.